Taste of Yekaterinburg: where to eat and drink in this vibrant Ural outpost

Taste of Yekaterinburg: where to eat and drink in this vibrant Ural outpost
Inside Shalom Shanghai. Image: Alexey Ponomarchuk

Kick back and revel in some of the nightlife hotspots and culinary delights to be found in a city that mixes Siberian traditions with more conventional European fare, marking Russia's transition between Europe and Asia

25 May 2018
Text: Anastasia Kandoba Anastasia Kandoba
Image: Alexey Ponomarchuk Alexey Ponomarchuk

The industrial power of Yekaterinburg is not just to be found in its architecture and culture, but also in its food. Gorge on homemade pelemeni or vareniki dumplings in Soviet-style eateries or try the local craft brew and head out for a mind-blowing night out deep underground. Eating and drinking on the edge of Europe has never been so enjoyable.


Papa Carlo Coffee

A small and minimalist cafe like something you might find in Berlin. Expect handcrafted desserts, debates over the essence of coffee and stacks of journals from publications that have long since stopped their print editions.

Address: 17 Tolmacheva Street


Nelson Sauvin

Wild ale, old gueuze and blackberry lambic can all be found among the wide choice of local and imported new wave brews in this alluring bar. Expect a snack selection from local dairy farms, a good crowd and roadside tables when the weather is good. Order a specially selected tasting set of brew and snacks in advance and during the summer arm yourself with a guitar and songbook to test the patience of the neighbours upstairs.

Address: 21/4 Malysheva Street


Mizantrop

Picture the scene: a nondescript iron door with a keyhole-shaped window glowing faintly red. If you’re lucky enough to get past the bouncers and security, prepare to descend into the most exuberant musical den Yekaterinburg has ever seen.

Address: 14 8-Marta Street


Zames

An eatery opened by two well-known local chefs. The pelmeni and vareniki dumplings, as well as the mousses served with them, are mouth-wateringly good. Try the legendary posikunchiki (an Ural hybrid combining fried patties and pelmeni), which you may have heard about but been afraid to try.

Address: 12 Pushkin Street


Vietmon

This cafe was opened several years ago by a young Vietnamese man and it has a spacious hall, framed engravings, Vietnamese music and colourful tasselled fabric lampshades. The menu isn’t short on choice, ranging from rather exotic dishes to more obvious choices.

Address: 35 Gagarin Street


Shalom Shanghai

Vaulted ceilings, ancient masonry and melted candles on brick ledges. A bar for those who love to dress up and get down to good music surrounded by beautiful people. If you’re feeling peckish, climb the staircase up to the Faya pizzeria and restore your strength with a life-giving uovo pizza.

Address: 4 8-Marta Street


Televizor

The bar’s interior looks like it was dreamt up with every kind of sports fan in mind: paraphernalia covers every surface and the screens show a constant stream of different matches. Down a shot and retire immediately, or stay to wallow in drunken nostalgia. The bar is equipped with 1990s video games and table football.

Address: 4 Radishchev Street


Fabrika Kukhnya

A restaurant on the ground floor of the Iset Hotel, Fabrika Kukhnya is the epitome of a redefined Soviet canteen. The name is, in part, a homage to the location’s former use as a factory kitchen. The site was home to restaurant Uralskie Pelmeni until a recent restoration project, but the recipes were saved, so make sure to try the pelmeni and the cherry vareniki with apple stuffing.

Address: 69/1 Prospekt Lenina